A floor finish creates a protective layer that safeguards your floors against damage. There are many different types of finishes, and each one serves a specific purpose.
Surface finishes provide a clean and modern look. They come in a variety of sheen levels including gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte.
Surface Finishes
Surface Finish is the overall texture of a product. It is a key factor in the functionality and lifespan of products. It is usually evaluated visually or with specialized equipment such as surface profilometers. Surface finish can be measured in a variety of ways, including center line average (RA), root mean square deviation (RMS) and waviness patterns.
The most common surface finishes are film-forming and penetrating. The main difference between these types is that film-forming finishes dry into hard, clear coatings while penetrating finishes soak into the material and leave a soft film or paste behind.
Both types have a wide range of applications, but they differ in how the surface is prepared for finishing and how the final result is achieved. Whether you’re looking for an aesthetic that stands out or need a specific finish to ensure a good fit, there are many options to choose from.
To evaluate surface finish, you can use a chart or conversion table to compare roughness parameters between different units. The most widely used parameter is Ra, which measures the arithmetic average of the differences between peaks and valleys in the profile. RMS is another popular measurement, which is less sensitive to extremes and uses five samples to calculate an average.
There are also a number of other surface texture measurements that can be evaluated, such as waviness and etchability. Waviness looks at the broader patterns of the waves on the surface, while etchability is more focused on the fine details within those waves.
Other factors that influence surface finish include the type of material and the machine tools used for machining. The feed rates and speeds of the machine can significantly impact the final texture. A higher feed rate might produce a smoother finish, but it could also increase manufacturing time and costs. The path of the cutting tool also impacts the surface finish. Overlapping paths can create a smoother finish, while non-overlapping passes might lead to a patterned or ridged surface.
When choosing a finish for your custom molded plastic parts, you should consider the functional requirements of the part, its environment and its interaction with other components. A finished part needs to be able to withstand the elements, have an attractive appearance and provide a good feel for the user. The finish should be compatible with the other materials used to build the part, and it should be able to adhere well to the existing material.
Penetrating Oil Finishes
Until the advent of polyurethane finishes, penetrating oil systems were one of the most popular finishing options for wood floors. Now they are back in fashion. “The contractor and consumer market has embraced the beauty of an oiled floor.” He adds that penetrating oils are especially popular when combined with texturing techniques like wirebrushing and hand-scraping.
Penetrating oil finish systems are a combination of a drying oil (like tung or linseed) and varnish, with a small amount of mineral spirits mixed in to thin the mixture, speed up the drying time, make application easier, and provide added protection and durability. You can find natural penetrating oil finishes manufactured by WOCA, Rubio, and Bona.
They require very little maintenance because they don’t build up and are easily refreshed with a new coat. They’re also less likely to scratch and dent, and they have a very nice natural sheen when dry. The only drawback to a penetrating oil system is that open-grained hardwoods can soak up so much of the finish that it can leave spots on the surface, an annoyance called “bleedback.” Bleedback can be controlled by wiping off the excess as soon as it appears.
Natural penetrating oil finishes do amber over time, but it is far less noticeable than with a polyurethane finish. Erickson says it’s important to educate customers about the extent of this ambering before they decide on this type of finish.
A visual test can help determine whether or not a finish is a penetrating oil or a film-forming product. Simply pour a small puddle of finish on a smooth, non-porous surface like glass and watch how it reacts. Film-forming products will dry into hard, clear coatings, while oil finishes will generally just sit on the surface, soften or even disappear completely.
Another benefit of a penetrating oil finish is that it can be repaired or renewed much more easily than a polyurethane system. If a spot is dinged or scratched, you can sand the area to remove the damaged layer of finish and then apply a fresh coat of finish to disguise it.
Hardwax Oil Finishes
Most woodworkers are familiar with waxes that you rub into the wood to protect it, and with oil finishes like linseed or tung oils – such as those used by noted furniture maker Sam Maloof. But hardwax oils are a relatively new product class that are starting to catch on in the flooring industry. Hardwax oil finishes combine a penetrating oil with wax and a drying agent, creating a hard-wearing finish that’s easy to apply, very durable, and provides a natural hand-rubbed look that really shows off the color of the wood.
Unlike polyurethane, which creates a plastic-like layer on top of the wood, hardwax oils penetrate into the wood fibers and bond with them, providing a tough shield that resists scratches, stains, and wear. This allows the wood to breathe and acclimate to changes in humidity and temperature, and also means that small dents or marks can be repaired more easily.
Hardwax oils are available in a wide range of attractive wood tone shades, and the finish can be lightly distressed to highlight the natural grain. They are ideal for most types of unfinished interior wood, and can be used on floors, doors, and other furniture as well. These finishes typically contain a blend of natural oil and waxes, with some added pigmentation. Some brands use a more modern, low VOC formulation (volatile organic compounds) that is better for the environment and human health.
As with other wood finishes, care for a hardwax oil floor is similar to that of a polyurethane one. Manufacturers typically recommend dusting, vacuuming, and damp cleaning with approved cleaners.
Most hardwax oil finishes will take a few days to fully dry, and will need to cure for another week or so before they can be walked on. It’s important to maintain favorable drying and curing conditions (warm temperatures, good airflow, and minimal moisture) to ensure a long life for this type of finish. As the finish dries and cures, it will become stronger and more resilient against damage. The surface will feel harder and more abrasion resistant than before, but it will not be as shiny.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is the most common type of finish used on wood surfaces. It is essentially liquid plastic that hardens into different degrees of durability depending on the base chosen. Polyurethane finishes can be water-based or oil-based, and they are typically applied using a brush, rags, or a sprayer. Similar to Epoxy Flooring in LA Area, these finishes are extremely durable and can resist scratching, scuffing, moisture, and heat. They also offer good flexibility and protection against UV damage.
Like traditional nitrocellulose lacquers, many types of polyurethane contain Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). However, there are low-VOC and water-based polyurethane alternatives available that are more environmentally friendly. These alternatives have lower odors and emit fewer harmful fumes during application than traditional varnishes.
These products are widely used because they dry quickly and are easy to apply. They are relatively inexpensive and provide excellent protection against wear and tear. However, they are not as flexible as shellac or varnish, and they are less able to resist impact damage. They may also yellow over time.
VOC levels vary, but both water-based and oil-based polyurethanes have low toxicity. This makes them suitable for use in the home. However, oil-based polyurethanes are more toxic than their water-based counterparts, so it is important to follow all safety guidelines when applying them.
Oil-based polyurethanes require a longer curing time than their water-based counterparts. This is a downside to using this product, especially for projects that have a tight deadline. Water-based polyurethanes dry much faster and are therefore an attractive option for those who want to get their project completed sooner.
Polyurethanes are available in matte, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss sheen levels. The sheen level does not affect the durability of the finish, but it does influence how well the finish hides scuff marks and dirt.
Choosing the right type of finish for your project depends on a number of factors, including the amount of traffic and the frequency of maintenance required. For example, a high-traffic area of the home might need to undergo touch-ups once per month while a less-frequently used space might only need to be touched up two to three times a year.
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